31 May 2023|Thoughts about
We have been enjoying a great spell of weather in St Andrews recently so I decided it was time to get out and walk some of the coastal path again. The plan was to walk to the Castle Course to grab a pie and a coffee before heading back, but I ended up walking to the Fairmont instead, a round trip of just over 9 miles. I wanted to share the walk with others who don't know about it as so many people come to St Andrews and only see the West Sands or Janettas!
This is possibly the favourite walk I can do from home although the West Sands and Eden Estuary push it pretty close. The views back towards St Andrews are some of the best and the coastal geology is spectacular. The path can be tricky in places, especially if it is wet and there are a couple of bits that can be problematic if you don't get the tide right, but it's well worth the effort if you are up this way.
After walking through town you arrive at the little harbour. There's a small cabin here where you can buy refreshments, bacon rolls, beach toys for the kids etc. Then you walk over the bridge and arrive at East Sands, known colloquially as "the local's beach". I totally understand the attraction of the West Sands but you really are missing out on this little gem if you don't come round here. It also marks the start of my coastal walk.
East Sands Beach looking towards the coastal path
The car parks around here can get quite busy as it's also where the sailing club and the Cheesy Toast Shack are located, but it's an easy walk from town at less than 10 mins from Janettas ice cream shop.
When the tide is out this is a lovely beach to walk along. You'll often find some brave souls in there swimming, paddle boarding or surfing too. It's a nice, gentle slope and there are very few rocks to get in the way.
Walk along the beach and up the hill by the caravan park and you start onto the coastal path proper. Sturdy footwear would be advised for some of the areas but you should be ok wearing a decent pair of training shoes. There are some particularly hilly areas where the rock steps can get quite slippy when it's wet too so be prepared.
No wonder the front-facing caravans are in such high demand - what a view!
Some effort to get these stones on the path - they can be slippy when wet though
From here the walk can take you all the way to Crail and beyond, but the walk today was just going to be to the Fairmont Hotel with a stop along the way to remember my friend Neil. I don't normally name people in my posts but I have the permission of Neil's wife to name him and share a photo. As you walk along here the views back into St Andrews just keep getting better. I've got so many photos from the 6th green / 7th tee of the Castle Course looking back into town that I could fill a whole post just with them.
Great views around every corner
Other than the view I'm always taken by the changes in the coastline and the amazing geological structures you come across on this walk. The first you come across is known as the Rock and Spindle and is quite spectacular up close.
The Rock and Spindle
Walk a bit further and you come to a very unusual volcanic plug. I never knew about this until Neil pointed it out to me when we played the 17th of the Castle Course up above it. If you look over the cliff from the back tee on the 17th you get a great view from above. Now, every time I play the 17th or walk along this path, I stop and take a moment to remember Neil.
The volcanic plug from the ground and above - note how the rocks are fractured in a circle
Myself and Neil (left) enjoying a game on the Castle Course (from the 6th green)
I still remember when we took that photo. We sent it to a mutual friend who we knew was working that day, just to rub it in that we weren't! I sat on the rocks here for a few minutes just to take in the view, remember Neil and think about life in general. Imagining the force of nature that made this landscape certainly helps put life into perspective. In my mind, I can hear Neil in his particular Dundee brogue saying "Fantastic Keith, fantastic". It's a truly fascinating place and I always get a strange feeling if I walk out onto the plug. I've still not made it right to the middle as something always makes me stop before I get there! It doesn't show very clearly in this picture but if you look closely you can see the circular nature of the structure. When you are walking there you will also notice how the rocks fracture the opposite ways on both sides. It must have been quite an explosion.
The other place I always remember Neil is on the 8th tee of the Jubilee looking up the Eden estuary
Walking on from here you come to some areas that definitely need a bit of caution and effort to pass. There is a tidal influence to this path and there are some quite significant inclines to be aware of too.
Time your walk carefully!
Hard work in places - turn at the top and there’s even more steps!
I don't usually listen to music when I'm walking, but this time I did. I was in a reflective mood on the way out and was listening to Ouroboros by Ray LaMontaigne. Some interpret the ouroboros as a symbol for eternal cyclical renewal; life, death and rebirth. I never really thought about that at the time of the walk, but it's quite apt really. On the way back I was listening to The Cult as I wanted to pick up my pace (I was getting hungry) and something a bit more rocky was appropriate to get me moving faster!
The Fairmont marked the halfway point of this walk
Turning for home and time for some faster music
All in all, this was roughly a 9-mile round trip from my house, with 20k steps done before lunch and a great way to spend a lovely sunny morning. I find that walking is an excellent opportunity for quiet contemplation and really do find it relaxing. Now I just need to learn how to take the mindful walking concept onto the golf course with me.
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